Відео

The spacers are essentially a thick gasket. Some guys on the TRX forum have had their dealers install them and the dealer advised it will not void warranty and they put it in writing.

@@hali1337 from memory we were seeing -10c to -20c fluid temps on this one

@@theboo4u yes you can we retain the heat exchanger on an automated temperature controlled bypass valve in case it is needed for cooling

@ForcedInductionInterchillers that's great news ty! One more question if you don't mind. Is it possible to get the stage one kit, and then, over time, move up to the stage 2 without having to buy a whole new kit?

@@theboo4u yes absolutely that’s 100% possible

insulate your suction line, intercooler hoses, turn the engine fans and intercooler pump on full in the tune, hold engine rpm at 1200-1500rpm to spin the compressor faster and get colder, and of course use the correct weight of R134a as per instructions.

4-6 days with tracking and signature, however from mid Sep 2024 all orders will ship from Texas

the type of blower or turbo you use has minimal relevance to the chiller kit, the kit remains the same. The kit is designed for the AC system of the car. The chiller simply takes the place of your heat exchanger. You can use any blower, procharger etc or turbo you wish.

we use our CWA400, check them out here: fiinterchillers.com/product-category/car-parts/intercooler-pumps/

if the MAF is after theintercooler condensation maybe possible. We do have ways to avoid condensation, which requires a detailed reply to you, if you need this answer please email the office via the contact form on our website. fiinterchillers.com/contact/

fiinterchillers.com/product/thermal-blanket/

Is it aluminum or composite

@@crider46 our plates are machined from a billet of composite plastic made up of glass, carbon, nylon and a few other things. You can see a strength test of our material here: fiinterchillers.com/tech_articles/lsa-lid-spacer-strength-test/

100%

@@ForcedInductionInterchillersI wish you guys would make some plates for the Audi 3.0tfsi to be part of the universal chiller kit. That way we can comply with all the install requirements. I will share with you important technical data for this: there is enough space to fit a 6” cube reservoir above the factory water pump location under the headlight. Front bumper removal is required to delete the small auxiliary heat exchanger and bracket that attaches it to the driver side rail behind headlight. The factory pump location will be gravity fed from that reservoir and other end shoots out into the interchiller brick. I already own your kit but the local shops I’ve asked are quoting obscene amounts for what is in theory a DIy job . I could just get a shop to legally remove the refrigerant for me and refill after I do the rest myself. If you guys can find an a6/a7 in Australia that would let you test the build out that would be the best situation. I’m willing to share with you photos that I took before putting bumper back on. The routing is already perfectly in place , I would just delete factory heats exchanger and put the chiller brick in its original location. All I need is someone to make a basic bracket for the coolant resevoir, weld it in place permanently.

we have other videos covering this off, such as this example: ua-cam.com/video/x-yRT2LkZWo/v-deo.html Just keep in mind the chiller makes your tank of fluid cold. Your pump and how much fluid you have in the tank is the ONLY things that control how high the peak IAT is under WOT, it has zero to do with the chiller, the chiller simply make the fluid cold. What you choose to do with the fluid flow and volume is on you and they are the only things controlling the peak IAT under WOT

colder intake Temps, more HP

Huh? You having a stroke? Damage intake valves? 🤣

@@LoneWolfSnowplowing just saying due to the extreme difference in temps really cold air going into the intake ,thus the valuve temp is changing to quickly is what i am saying, plus what was the outside temp, i get it, with A/C gas to make the air intake temps really cold, just think of temp shocking the metal even though the oil is keeping it warm, possibly at start up times which is when it might happen? Like what is the AIT temp at the intake port areas after it passes the manifold intake area to go into the intake port etc. has anyone done tests on the metal chock values and what is the intake valve made out of as well. cheers mate.👌✌👍🦘

@@7071t6it's no different than driving a car in cold climate. Cars in Canada, Alaska, etc don't destroy intake valves.

@@LoneWolfSnowplowing yes i agree, but what about hose in hotter climates thats the point, are the valves different metals for those engines in hotter climates like say UAE etc. Just asking thats all. ✌✌👌👌

@@LoneWolfSnowplowing cheers buddy i agree, just thinking out the box etc. Its a question thats all.👍👍✌✌

10mm was used

10mm plates 5.6mm longer belt, 1" plates 14mm longer belt

Please email the office for advice, sounds like you have not done something correctly on the install. UA-cam is not the place for tech support.

Maybe because of the increased amount of refrigerant from the chiller ? Beginning of the video he does mention they’re setting the charge weight …. I wonder if that means you can calibrate it to 30,40,50 interior while running both ?

yes both are stock

@@ForcedInductionInterchillers incredible. This is my next step. Getting the tank fabricated within the next few weeks. <5 gallon will be mounted up front where the battery was. -16An fittings and a CW400. Hoping to get rid of heat soak forever.

@@trevorchichester8550 very nice

yes we can do any car, please email the office fiinterchillers.com/contact/

yes we can do any car, please email the office fiinterchillers.com/contact/

Please emailed the office for a detailed explanation fiinterchillers.com/contact/

This is a plug and play kit that Jorge installed himself.

We expect to see a “minimum” of 50rwhp on a 500+rwhp car on a 25C 77F day. We expect to see a “minimum” of 80rwhp on a 35+C 95+F day as there is a higher retention of HP.

We are unsure who tuned it unless the customer mentioned it in the video review

No our chiller is foam insulated, and as long as you also foam sleeve your intercooler hoses you will not drip on the track. We also install a solenoid on all kits which physically blocks the flow of refrigerant to the cabin and is controlled via an ON/OFF switch inside the car. This solenoid/switch allows you to run in 1 of 2 modes: 1. cabin and chiller 2. chiller only When racing, winter time or wanting to get as cold as possible you run in chiller only mode. When in chiller only mode no condensation will form and drip from the cabin evaporator. As such you will meet tech inspection for IHRA, NHRA, ANDRA, and CAM's racing.

@@ForcedInductionInterchillers Is there a way to turn off the chiller and just run cabin only ? also what tank would you recommend ?

@@bigdh6067 There is no need to turn off the chiller, you have better fuel economy as less fuel is being lost to evaporation on the back of the intake valve and intake port. Running this chiller you will get better gas milage. For the hellcat look into Rains Precision Motorsports or Black Market Racing.

@@ForcedInductionInterchillers okay check out those 2 companies for the tanks?

@@bigdh6067 yes check them out

Please email the office there is a long copy and paste explanation of the stage 2 kit we have you can email via the contact form on our website here: fiinterchillers.com/contact/

peak IAT under wide open throttle is 100% controlled by the intercooler pump flow rate and fluid volume stored in a reservoir tank. You have to keep in mind the chillers job is ONLY to make a volume of fluid cold, what you then do with that cold fluid is up to you and how well you utilize it. On the hellcat platform you can see an 8sec hellcat data log here: ua-cam.com/video/x-yRT2LkZWo/v-deo.html

Does not sound related to any of our products you should contact your dealer and have the issue investigated.

Firstly no dyno run lasts for 20sec. However lets assume the period of wide open throttle is 20sec for lets say a 1/2 mile or even 25-30sec for a 1 mile race. All you need to do is appropriately size your reservoir tank Vs your intercooler pump flow rate. If we take an example of lets say 6gal per min (on car flow rate) and we say you are going to be under wide open throttle for 30sec then you are only going to consume 3gal of fluid during that period of wide open throttle. If you have a baffled 4gal tank this will ensure that your fluid temp on the start line is say 20F and the finish line is also 20F. As you can see with the tank sized correctly this will then net you the coldest possible temps on the start line and finish line. I hope this helps you understand how the system is working a little better and what it can do for long extended periods of wide open throttle.

@@ForcedInductionInterchillers I would still love to see the data. Dont get me wrong but I plan to use similar diy setup on compound turbo setup that im about to make

@@lamazver Data log right here: ua-cam.com/video/x-yRT2LkZWo/v-deo.html

The freon will need to be recharged after the install is complete. The heat exchanger is generally deleted from the car, however if you wish to retain it you can place it on a temperature controlled bypass valve.

@@ForcedInductionInterchillers badass love it!

so what happens when i wot my car and the ac system turns off to give my car more power does this system stop flowing ? if the ac cuts off at wot how will coolant temps stay low?

@@frankthatank6716 our chiller is designed to make a tank of fluid freezing cold, the fluid volume and flow rate of the fluid is what is keeping the intake temps down under wide open throttle. The chiller is functioning exactly like an ice tank, except it is way colder and everlasting, whereas ice is hotter and needs to be replaced.

fiinterchillers.com/product/interchiller/